BYERS LAKE

We love visiting the state owned cabins at Byers Lake in the winter.  The scenery & solitude can't be beat, especially when Mt McKinley (aka Denali) makes an appearance.  Thanksgiving weekend we were invited to spend a few days with friends who had reserved Cabin 3.  Our last visit to this cabin was in January 2011, and the temperatures bottomed out at minus 30.  This visit was lots warmer, only minus ten.  By the time we got there Friday evening, David and Traci had the place warmed up nicley.  If anything, the inside of the cabin was too warm!

The mountain was out Saturday morning.  Pictures just don't show how majestic Denali is, rising above its sister peaks in the Alaska Range. Always feel lucky when I see the mountain.

Lynx Lake

Last week we ventured north under slighty cloudy skies to Nancy Lakes State Recreation Area.  Our destination - Lynx Lake PUC 1.  Champ and I spent a miserable night here last year about this same time.  Most of the misery was mine as I had a head cold, no sinus medicine, and a leaking air mattress.  Tried to sleep on Champ's bed but was up every hour to clear my head and as soon as I left the bed he reclaimed it.  Believe it was a tad cold too with temperatures south of zero.  Fun stuff.

This trip was a pleasure.  We had mild temperatures (20's) and a blanket of fresh snow on our way to the cabin.  We took a detour and actually found a route in that I had been looking for the past few years.  That it turned out to be a "long cut" was no biggie, just more exercise.  Lots of fresh moose, hare and fox tracks in the snow but not one sign of people.  Nice to have the place to ourselves.

Pleasantly surprised to find enough wood at the cabin to keep us toastie all night.  Having brought the ax, I spent a few minutes splitting enough spruce and birch for the next lucky occupants.  The snow continued to fall most of the evening and the skies stayed cloudy so no northern lights.  Too bad as this cabin, while tiny, has a big picture window facing north across the lake.

The fresh snow gave us a little workout on our way home.  As usual, Champ pulled the sled and Nancy broke trail.  I drove!

Catching up

Well another year is winding down and as usual, I've gotten behind on blogging.  Since last we met, I've been to Texas for a Hoe Down and a visit with Pops and the siblings.  Always nice to see family.  Spent a few days at the lakehouse enjoying the mild weather.

The lovely Cossette

Also got to catch up with my old friends some of whom I started school with and have know all my life.  Even squeezed in a visit to Beaumont to see Kellye & David, and my ex secretary Cossette.










Since our return lots of stuff has been happening.  Went to the Roller Derby for the first time - a blast.  Got our first snow on October 28th and then the stuff just kept falling.  Getting close to record amounts for November at about 36 inches.  Moose hunted. Enjoyed the great outdoors with two cabin camping trips.  The first was to Bald Lake the week before Thanksgiving.  Braved 80 mph winds to hike the short distance to the cabin and then lay awake listening to the roar as the wind increased!  Our second trip was to Byers Lake just after Thanksgiving.  Minus 15 but we stayed toasty warm.

WOLVERINE

Beautiful weather on Monday with a promise of more to come made me decide Wolverine Peak would be the perfect sendoff for my journey to Texas.  After all, the mountains in Texas are pretty few so I would be without for awhile.  So  Tuesday morning, after getting up at the crack of dawn and getting the winter tires put on, Champ and I were off to Prospect Heights trailhead. 

With only one other vehicle in the parking lot, we had a great swath of Chugach State Park to ourselves.  Twenty degrees at 10 am but the sun was out and no wind.  Great hiking conditions.  What little water in the trail was frozen, making even the muddy portions a breeze.  In no time at all we reached the notch atop the first steep climb.  A break for water and a few pics of Anchorage in the distance, and we were ready for the real climb to begin. 

A lot more slowly than before, we trudged up the approach to the ridge leading to Wolverine.  A brilliant sunny day had us sweating despite the cool temperature.  On gaining the ridge, we met the only other person we saw all day.  As we passed, he let us know that a band of sheep were just below the peak on the backside of the mountain.  Hoping that they would hang around till we got there, we plodded along enjoying the great views in all directions.  Nothing like ridge walking on a sunny windless day.

A few hundred feet short of the summit, the snow was abundant enough for us to put on our "crampons."  Then a quick push had us at the top.  As luck would have it, the sheep were still there, and graciously agreed to pose for pictures.  Champ felt sure he could join them as they perched atop a crag just below us.  I disabused him of that notion promptly.

My first time to the summit was worth all the effort.  In addition to the sheep, a raven and magpie joined us for brief visits.  I have to believe they enjoyed the majestic vistas as much as us.  Far in the distance, Long Lake could be seen on one side of a dividing ridge.  On the other, Williwaw Lakes.  Lots of snow covered these gems and it hardly seemed possible that we had backpacked there as recently as August.  Winter comes fast in Alaska.

TEXAS

Its been almost five years since I experienced a Texas summer so I was a bit worried about the heat when I ventured south for a visit.  Even though it was October, given the record setting highs and the persistent drought conditions, I feared the worse.  Fortunately, the weather cooled slightly on arrival and so far has been nice.  A "cold front"  Monday night dropped the temperatures into the 40's (just slightly), while the sun warmed things up during the day. 

Last saturday we attended a family reunion.  Lots of food family and fun. 











Later Nancy got to meet my Jr High friends.  Doc TJ Terry Becky & Tony.  Her week in Texas ended way too soon.  I stayed an extra week, spending part of that time back at the lake cleaning closets and rearranging things to my satisfaction.  Dad's dog Juneau was kind enough to accompany me and he seemed to like the change of scenery.  All too soon my own time was up and back to Alaska I headed.

SYMPHONY LAKES

INDIAN SUMMER DAY



Cindy

I know the snow is on the way but today was a beauty.  Cool this morning but sunny and the temperature kept climbing all the way to 50.  Had a great workout and then lunch and then the dogpark.  Tried to capture the mountain range across Cook Inlet but the pictures just don't do them justice.

SUNDAY IN THE PARK

Climbing up to the Overlook

We had such fun Saturday that we returned to Eagle River for another hike on Sunday.  While Champ and I were both a little stiff from the climbing the day before, we warmed up quickly as we joined Dave and a few others for a stroll out to Eagle & Symphony Lakes.  Once we reached the lakes, it was all uphill as we climbed to the Overlook.  A strenuous climb but we made it.

The hike down was way easier and in no time we were back to boulder field following the rock cairns across.  The views back from where we had been became increasingly beautiful as clouds rolled in and the sun changed position.

HARP MOUNTAIN AND RIDGE HIKE

Saturday's weather was perfect for a hike up Harp Mountain.  Champ and I left Anchorage under clear skies and met up with our group at the end of Hiland Road in Eagle River.  The hike up Harp is long and steep but we made good time as the leg muscles slowly warmed up.  We reached the top of Harp (5000 feet) and enjoyed awesome views of the surrounding area. 

Not surprisingly, the upper reaches of Harp were already dusted with snow, a sure sign that winter grows near.  Champ was certainly happy to reconnect with the white stuff.  He ate it and then rolled on his back sliding around and cooling off. 

After a quick snack and mandatory picture taking our group split up.  Half returned to the trailhead while the rest walked the ridgeline back above Hanging Valley.  Mostly good footing with only a few places where scrambling was necessary.  A few miles later we reached the saddle that sits above the end of Hanging Valley.  To our right well below us was a clear mouintain tarn, its waters shimmering  in the afternoon sun.  To our left, our destination  Lookout Point several thousand feet above us and covered already in snow.  On we marched.

As we walked upward the snow became deep enough for us to kick steps and ascend almost straight to the ridge above us.  The reward was incredible views in all directions.  Five thousand feet above Eagle River.  After a short rest, the wind finally appeared and my sweat soaked body started to get cold.  Once again the snow allowed us to make a quick descent back down to the saddle and then down to the floor of Hanging Valley.  As we lost elevation the wind died off and the afternoon sunshine soon had us peeling layers and glistening.  From there, it was a nice walk back to the trailhead, albeit we did do a bit of bushwhacking on the way.

EAGLE RIVER (SECRET CABIN)

Flag is redundant, this place screams Highlands

Saturday Nancy Champ and I headed to Eagle River where we met up with Donna and her two dogs (Chena & Kodiak) for a hike to a "secret cabin."  This small log cabin was built in the 1970's just before the land became Chugach State Park.  It's one room, very rustic and not well known.  A small cadre of friends/users maintain the place with no official sanction from the Park Service including our friend Donna who was kind enough to reveal the "secret" location to us.

Its a bit of a hike out the Crow Pass Trail from the Nature Center to reach the cabin.  I guess with the out and back and the exploring we did around the cabin our weekend mileage was 25 miles or so.  Pretty easy trail in most parts although we had to cross Eagle River, a cold portage even when the sun is shining.  Lucky for us we had sunshine and even found a log to bridge across one channel of the river.  A little bushwhacking is also required to reach the cabin but I'm confident I could find my way back unassisted.

Had to walk up a log to reach the bridge

We arrived about 5 pm.  Had a snack and then hiked to Raven Creek.  There's an old footbridge across this roaring glacier fed creek and with a little bit of repair work on the approach, we were able to get all the dogs and people across and back.










Burning Dog

 Enjoyed a nice fire back at the cabin.  Then dinner and a great night's sleep.

KESUGI RIDGE

I first hiked Kesugi Ridge in July 2008, one of the few times I actually "led" a group in Alaska.  I've longed to return with more time to explore especially the north end near the headwaters of Little Coal Creek.  So last Friday Nancy Champ and I set out for a Memorial Day trek hoping the weather would cooperate and the mountains would be visible.

Got a late start and didn't start hiking till 5:30.  The trail leading up to the ridge is in good shape and was mostly dry.  The lite drizzle actually felt nice as it cooled us off on our climb.  In no time we were above treeline enjoying the scenic alpine tundra in all its fall colors.  Red, yellow and orange all combined to paint a beautiful picture over the background of rock and green.

Once on the ridge, the rain picked up.  Then the wind picked up.  And then picked up some more.  After crossing one of the upper branches of Little Coal Creek, we stumbled on a nice flat spot and somehow got the tent up.  Inside, away from the wind and rain, we decided dinner wasn't gonna happen so we snuggled into the bags passed the rainy night in relative comfort.

Next day we stayed in the tent till the rain stopped.  Following a breakfast of oatmeal (me) and ramen (Nancy) we hit the trail under clearing skies and sunshine.  Right off we hit an obstacle - a rockslide that covered the trail.  It slowed us down only a bit.

Once over the roacky area it was clear sailing, or walking.  The sun was out and the views were great.  Its neat to see the cairns that mark the trail stretching out before you as far as you can see.  In bad weather, they are invaluable as many times the cloulds seem to sit right on the ridge. 

We had planned on hiking only 5 or so miles and then camping, leaving the rest of the hike to Ermine Hill for Sunday.  In light of the nice weather, we decided to push on and go as far as we could.  About 4 pm we met the gang that had camped at Ermine Hill dayhiking north.  We joined them as they returned to their camps as the weather turned again rainy and cool.  By 7 pm, when we reached camp, we were cold wet and tired and hungry.  Luckily the rain stopped as we set the tent up and ate a hot meal.  We had no trouble falling asleep after our 11 mile day.

CROW PASS

 Wednesday August 31, despite less than ideal weather, we loaded our packs and headed for Gridwood, Alaska.  A very lite rain was falling as we reached the trailhead for Crow Pass.  Undeterred we donned raingear and hiked the 3 + miles and 2000 feet elevation gain to reach the new forest service A frame cabin.  There we were greeted by John and Vicky, who had overnighted Tuesday hoping to climb a nearby peak.  Unfortunately, the rainy cloudy zero visibility weather had kept them inside the cabin.  As it looked doubtful that any real clearing weather would occur, they decided to hike down during a lull in the rain leaving Nancy, Champ and I the sole occupants for the night.  They did leave us a supply of kerosene for the oil stove for which we were grateful.

 Thursday morning started out with lots of ground level cloud cover.  We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and relit the stove.  By the time we finished reading the books we hauled in, the clouds had lifted and we enjoyed nice weather as we hiked out.

UPPER RUSSIAN LAKE

On August 25, Nancy, Champ and I, along with Norm and a new friend Deb, journeyed south to Cooper Lake on the Kenai Peninsula.  From the Cooper Lake trailhead, we set off in a light drizzle for our weekend's destination - Upper Russian Lake and the old trapper cabin located there.  A nice walk of about 9.5 miles on mostly good trail although it was pretty damp from all the rains.  On our hike in we saw all manner of fungi, including these really spectacular ones.

We reached the cabin about 4 pm.  A welcome site indeed.  Champ, Norm and I were last here in June when we did our trek on the Resurrection Trail.  The grass was alot higher and the water in the creek alot lower than we remembered but the cabin was just as nice.  A fire was soon lit and we spent the evening recovering from our walk.  Later in the evening Doug Donna and Tom arrived.  By the end of the weekend, a total of nine would be gathered at this snug little abode, built in the early 1950's.

Reading the cabin's journal that night we learned that a pair of grizzlies were often seen around cabin and the lake.  Apparently these two siblings were raised in the area and had just recently left the nest.  So we were only mildly surprised when they came to visit Friday morning.

Tom fishing on the log where the bears had no luck

Spent Friday gathering wood, and playing in the rowboat.  On a trip with Champ and Doug, got to see the two bruins trying to catch salmon.  Missed an awesome photo op as they both stood on a log that jutted out over the water.

Nancy and Donna herding ducks

Camp Denali

Spent the past weekend camping at Riley Creek in the frontcountry of beautiful Denali National Park.  On Friday's "required" bus ride into the park, we were treated to an amazing display of nature including more grizzly sitings than ever before.  Also got to see the mountain, and some spectacular scenery as the colors are almost ready to change.  A great trip topped off with a gourmet meal at 229 hosted by our friend Frank and his girlfriend Orla.



Hanging out at camp




The Mountain





A Denali grizzly

 


On the road



Rainy days and Sundays

The month of August has been a wet one here in the far north.  Today is no exception.  A light rain that started last night grew stronger early this morning and has continued till noon.  So far we've had 2.5 inches of rain this month and more than an inch is expected in the next few days.  Doesn't sound like much but the monthly average for August is just 1.5 inches.  Year to date rainfall measures 8.3 inches.  Don't think things can get any greener around here.

Those of you in Texas could stand a bit more of the wet stuff.  Seems that heat advisories have replaced storm warnings and the yearly rainfall is off by close to 20 inches.  Drought.  Of course, its not as hot as the summer of 1980.  A string of 21 days with temperatures over 100.  Also the one and only summer worked as a lifeguard at a community pool in Baytown.  Man was I ever brown that summer.

WILLIWAW LAKES

Having just been burned by the weatherman, you'd think we'd be leery about planning a trip into the mountains based on a forecast of sunshine and clear skies.  Of course, hope springs eternal so they say (must be Astros fans) so when we saw the prediction for six days of nice weather beginning Wednesday August 10, we couldn't resist.  Our chosen destination - Williwaw Lakes, a string of mountain lakes forming the headwaters of the middle fork of Campbell Creek .

A slightly new twist to this trip was Champ carrying his own pack.  Since he does so well pulling a sled in winter, we thought he'd take to hauling his own kibble with no worries.










Getting a slightly later start than we intended we hit the trail at 2 pm.  While it wasn't raining, the sky was full of clouds and a few of the surrounding peaks were partially hidden.  But the weather people said sunny skies were ahead so we didn't worry.  Onward we hiked down the powerline pass trail and around the middle fork trail to the Williwaw Lakes trail.  Climbing ever so gradually we made steady progress and soon spied the first of the lakes.  Should have crossed the small outflow here and made our way up the north side of the valley but instead continued up and around two rockfalls and a really overgrown swampy section before finally reaching the spot where a friend and I had camped back in 2007.  We stopped only long enough to photograph some cool fungi as our goal was one of the higher lakes.

Mushroom

By the way, in meteorology, a williwaw is a sudden blast of wind descending from a mountainous coast to the sea.  Sort of exactly like the wind that suddenly pounded us as we forded Campbell Creek.  With the wind, a few isolated smatterings of hail and RAIN!  Not drizzle but a real downpour.  We struggled to get the tent erected and our gear inside - not an easy task in those conditions.  With Nancy inside to hold the tent in place, Champ and I resigned ourselves to riding out the deluge.  As fast as it was on us, it was over.  In its place clearing skies and sunshine.



Clearing skies ahead

With the clearing skies and sunshine, our spirits improved drastically.  In no time, wet gear was drying and we were able to enjoy the beautiful scenery.  Our campsite, forced on us by the weather, was as nice as any I recall.  Topping out the evening, a pair of goats on a ridge above us watched us as we watched them.  They seemed pretty accepting of our presence, calmly grazing on the grasses as they slowly walked the ridge.  Champ was unimpressed with the goats, he wanted marmots to chase.  As he explored the area, the goats kept a watchful eye on him, moving once when he ranged too close for comfort.  After a late dinner of chicken soup and a snickers bar, we watched the sunset over Cook Inlet and then slept the sleep of the truly content, and tired.

Looking west toward Cook Inlet

Thursday morning's weather was exactly what the weatherman predicted.  Sunny and clear.  Its so nice when they deliver.  We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of eggs, hash browns and sausage courtesy of Mountain House.  Nourished we decided to climb to the pass overlooking Long Lake.  Up we went gaining about 1000 feet in two miles.  Along the way we were treated to numerous waterfalls as well as the beauty of three more high alpine lakes.  Reaching the pass by mid-afternoon, we agreed that the views were worthy of the effort.



Long Lake

The return to camp was filled with more sunshine and awesome scenery.  Butterflies and blueberries.  Since we had skipped lunch, we decided to have an early dinner. We feasted on Shepherd's Chile Pie, my own creation.  Tasted okay even though I forgot the tomato paste.  That or we were just hungry.   After dinner we lazed the afternoon away reading and watching a band of goats travel the ridge above our camp.

Sure hated to leave this place.  But we did.  Hiked out in scorching temps (68) under a blazing sun.  Made it down in time to have a late lunch at Benny's Taco Truck and then spent the evening cleaning house and getting ready for the RETURN OF FRANK.