RESURRECTION TRAIL

Bye Bye Nancy

Just finished a week long hike of the Resurrection Trail.  This trail slices through the Kenai Mountains and at one time was the only connection between Seward and the gold claims surrounding the town of Hope.  Its one of the few established long distance hiking trails in Alaska. For this trip I was tagging along with Norm Johnson, a seasoned Alaskan who had the fore site to book four of the forest service rustic cabins that dot the trail.  These cabins are much sought after and it was quite the coup for us to link them up for our hike.

Fox Creek Cabin

We started the hike late on Sunday, after dropping vehicles at the Cooper Lake Trailhead and in Seward.  By the time we said goodbye to Nancy, it was nearly 5 pm.  Given the time of year, we still had plenty of daylight for the first 12 miles to Fox Creek Cabin.  Unfortunately we had a steady but light rain for most of the four hours it took us to reach our destination.  Well worth the effort as the cabin has been renovated recently and provided a great resting spot for our first night.  Norm had a fire going in no time and the slight chill from the damp air was history.  After a dinner of beef strognanoff, I had no problem going to sleep.  Perhaps the late night Saturday had a little bit to do with the fatigue level.

Our second day saw us climbing above treeline to Resurrection Pass.  The sun was out for most of our hike making it a bit warm.  Views above treeline were awesome.  Shortly after cresting Devil's Pass, Champ's life long pursuit of marmots  finally yielded results.  He surprised a daydreaming marmot just around a bend in the trail.  It was touch and go for a few seconds but I convinced him to leave the furry guy alone long enough for him to escape up the mountainside into a marmot hole.  Champ had a bit of marmot spittle on his neck but no real damage.  Ditto for the marmot but I bet he stays closer to his escape route for the next few days.



Drying out at Devil's Pass Cabin

 We reached Devil's Pass Cabin by mid afternoon. Beautiful cabin located in a setting that even Heidi would appreciate. The beginning of Juneau Creek was right outside the door and though the water was cold, a mini bath was in order.  Once I was "clean" dinner was served - tacos!

Trout Lake Sunset

 Tuesday's destination was Trout Lake. The forest service completely rebuilt this cabin last year and it is one of the nicest cabins in the system. More of a chalet than a cabin, it boasts a real staircase and a complete upper story. Spent Christmas 2010 here with Nancy and Champ and our friends David & Traci. As was becoming our arrival ritual, we scrounged enough wood for a cozy fire and settled in for our afternoon naps. Dinner was lasagna with meat sauce. Norm loaned me a book and I spent the evening watching a spectacular sunset and reading. About 2 am, our friend Donna showed up, along with her trusted sidekick Chena. As she was bearing peanut butter cookies, we forgave her the late arrival.




Trout Lake Cabin

 







Juneau Falls

Wednesday morning came real early for some reason.  Weather was still nice (no rain) and our hike out to Cooper Landing was our shortest of the trip...a mere 7.5 miles.  Along the way we were treated to a spectacular view of Juneau Falls.  Have seen this falls many times but never before with this volume.  Impressive!  Shortly after 3 pm, we hit Coopers Landing having completed 40 miles of what some call the northern section of the Resurrection Trail.



Tarptent

We spent Wednesday night at the Russian River Campground.  The place was practically deserted as we were about a week ahead of fishing season.  Once fishing season starts, not a campsite or parking space is left open for this is the home of Alaska's famous combat fishing.  Anglers will line both sides of the Russian River shoulder to shoulder seeking the returning salmon.  Bears and eagles will roam the riverside looking for an easy meal, as an organized chaos takes hold.  No fish for us though.  We set up our tents and hit the town for burgers and a shower.  Later on, a campfire and the requisite deep philosophical conversation that is produced by campfires. 

Early next morning I wake to find Donna and Chena are leaving us.  In fact I watched her drive away, hatchback open, and Chena trotting along beside.  She was either giving the dog a walk, or Chena was playing games about loading up.  No matter, it was early and the bed was soft so we opted to crawl back in the tent for another hour of snooze.



Looking south above the Russian River Valley



When I finally get up for real, the sun is out and in no time the night's condensation is gone from the tent.  After a breakfast of Mexican Soup Casserole (my own invention), we pack up and hit the Russian Lakes Trail for the next leg of our journey.  Its 12 miles to tonight's destination-Upper Russian Lake Cabin. Early on we'll be a few hundred feet above the Russian River (prime bear territory) but by mid way we more or less follow the river to the uppermost lake.  Lots of bear sign including some of the largest tracks I've seen, but we make lots of noise and no bear encounters occur.



Aspen Flats Cabin



About two miles from our destination we make a detour of 3/4 mile to see the Aspen Flats Cabin.  We met a fellow traveller there with his dog, Antigan.  He advised that he had just ridden his bike to Upper Russian Lake and on the way met a very large Grizzly.  Thanking him for the info, we hiked on being hyper alert to avoid surprising him or any relations.  It seemed to take forever to reach the cabin!





Upper Russian Lake Cabin



The Upper Russian Lake Cabin is a true old fashioned log cabin.  It has recently been refurbished but it looks much as it did when originally built in the 1950's.  Set in a grove of giant cottonwoods, there is a stream that runs alongside the cabin down to the beach.  Makes it easy to filter water.  Lots of wood for a change and since the wind was blowing pretty hard, a fire was called for. Thanks again Norm! 



Backcountry Feast

Dinner this night was one of the best backcountry meals I've had.  Beef stew with green sauce, wood stove heated tortillas, and an IPA.  The beer was a leftover from the night before and a last minute addition to the pack.  As much as I hated the extra weight, it did taste damn good especially after chilling in the stream for a few hours.  After supper, took some sunset pictures and then read a novel I found at the cabin.  By midnight, I was one tired puppy.  Champ was tired too as he hit the hay about 8 pm and never moved till he fell off the bed about 3 am.  Those thermarest matteresses do have a tendency to slide.  Oh well it was a short fall and the floor was as good a place as any to sack out so no harm.

Friday morning we were treated to company courtesy of the USFS.  Seems the boat at the cabin has several leaks and the decision was made to replace it.  About 9 am a plane landed on the lake and dropped off two guys who helped load the old boat on the side of the plane.  The plane then left returning a short while later to drop off the new boat, and then load out the forest service guys and what little garbage we had.  Kind of neat watching a plane and a boat fly overhead.

Boat delivery

After our company left it was quick work to load the packs for our final day of hiking together.  Norm was continuing on the little used Russian River Trail to Seward.  Our plans called for us to leave his company about 4 miles down trail and then hike out another 6 miles to Cooper Lake.  Lots of ups and downs this morning and tons of bear tracks and bear scat.  As fresh as bear scat can get.  Steaming.  Visibility was a bit limited due to vegetation so again we made lots of noise and managed to avoid any encounters.  Last few miles were on very good trail and Champ and I were at the truck by 3 pm.  Sixty miles (+/-) in six days!  For Alaska, that is moving.

Norm seems confidant of the route to Seward